Wood table inlaid with photoluminescent powder - Diy

bright table

Although this table shows an aspect of high technology and extraterrestrial, it can actually be done at home! All you need are a few tables of Pecky cypress wood, photoluminescent powder, resin, some tools and a bit of skill.

bright Diy table

Mike Warren, an Instructables enthusiast and the blogger behind the Man Crafts column at dollarstorecrafts.com, came up with a set of instructions to create this original table. By mixing the photoluminescent powder with the resin and using it to fill in the holes that naturally form in the Pecky cypress wood, you can create beautiful, natural areas that will glow in the dark after being charged in sunlight.

bright wood Diy table

The photoluminescent powder (glow) mixed with transparent molding resin fills the voids formed naturally in the hardwood, creating a unique and impactful table. The brightness powder is charged to sunlight and emits a blue glow when it is in total or partial darkness. Placing this table near a window will allow you to pick up the rays of the setting sun and then set a nice glow from the twilight transition to the afternoon. Making your own is fun since you can customize it the way you want. Instead of using hardwood, you can use the technique of adding resplendent powder to the resin to project in many fun ways.

materials

Diy wooden table

The type of wood that was used for this table is known as"peyote cypress", which is a common cypress that has been damaged naturally with a growth of fungi inside that makes the sections rot. Wiki in taxadium distichum (cypress). These damaged pockets can be easily removed and create cavities in the wood that are perfect for filling with resin and bright powder. Damaged (rotten) cypress bags are soft and can be easily removed with compressed air and some digging with a hand tool.

fill the cracks with resin

In addition to wood, we will need:

blue glow in the dark dust

transparent molding resin

Wood

types of wood

The wood comes from the mill to the store in rough form, it is up to you to decide how you want the product to look. The clean edges will create a good surface to join the planks.

Cut the planks to the desired size

Cut the planks to the desired size

With the finished edges of the table you can cut the boards to the correct length. After marking each board with the desired final length, cut to size with the saw.

Join the planks to form a board

Join the planks to form a board

Using a plate assembler, cut the notches in the boards, then glue the cupcakes together and place them together. To ensure that the boards stay still while holding them, use some pieces of straight wood on the top and bottom of the boards. Allow the glue to dry overnight.

Dig rotting wood and mushrooms

Dig rotting wood and mushrooms

The damaged wooden pockets in the Pecky cypress wood can be easily removed by digging gently with small tools to clean the cavities. Starting with a vacuum cleaner, gently push a flat head screwdriver into each rotten cavity to dislodge the rot and remove it. Then, use compressed air to remove any remaining residue and ensure that the cavity is free of debris. This can be very dirty and dusty, so use the proper safety equipment.

polish the wood

After the glue has dried, sand the surface with 80 grit sandpaper in a random orbital sander. This will clean the transition between the glued tables. Next, brush the surface to remove the dust. We will need a super clean surface before we can go to casting with resin.

Cover and prepare the board for the resin

Cover and prepare the board for the resin

Before melting the resin, we must make sure that the table can retain the medium. Because some of the cavities in the boards extend all the way down, stick with adhesive tape, so any resin that goes to the bottom will accumulate and will not leak. To prevent the resin from oozing from the ends, place thick acrylic strips on both ends. Make sure that no cavity is left open at the sides. The acrylic remains can be fixed in place and a short edge of adhesive tape can be placed on the sides, just in case any resin will migrate.

Resin and glow powder

Resin and glow powder

Use clear cast resin, which is a 1: 1 ratio type, which means you do not need to measure a specific amount of catalyst, just equal parts of resin and catalyst. This resin is super easy to use and begins to be placed in approximately 7 m. There is a lot of brightness in the dark colors available, for this project we chose dark blue powder, which was obtained online. We would recommend using more powder glow than less, since the effect is much more surprising. For this 41"x22"table, 64 oz (2 liters) of cast resin and approximately 3.5 oz (100 g) of gloss powder were used. Your measurements will probably vary.

Prepare the resin

Prepare the resin

You can use paper cups to mix the resin. Pour equal portions of resin and catalyst into separate cups, ensuring that the cups are filled to less than half their capacity. Pour a piece of bright powder into a cup and mix well. Know that when you combine the two liquids of the resin the chemical reaction will begin, which will allow you only between 5-7 minutes of working time before the resin is fixed. When ready, add the catalyst to the resin and shake vigorously until the two liquids are a homogeneous mixture. Be sure to scrape the stirring rod, and the sides and bottom of the cup. Pour the stirred mixture into the catalyst cup and continue stirring. The whole mixing process should take less than 2 minutes to ensure that you have enough time to pour the resin without hardening it.

Pour the resin

Pour the resin

The already mixed resin can be poured into the cavities of the wood. Since the resin is not viscous enough to suspend the shine in the powder, take quick breaks from the spill to remove the mixture and ensure even distribution of the powder. Gently pour the bright resin into all the wooden cavities. You may find that the resin is absorbed into the wood or that some cavities take longer to fill, this is normal. You can apply another layer of resin on the sections previously poured. This process can take about an hour to complete. Allow the resin to cure completely overnight.

Let the resin cure, then uncover

Let the resin cure, then uncover

After allowing the resin to dry completely overnight, the acrylic edges and the adhesive tape can be removed. The resin will not stick to the acrylic, which allows peeling easily from the ends. The adhesive tape is a bit more complicated, but it can be easily removed with a little patience.

Preliminary test of brightness

Preliminary Test of Brightness

Take the top of the fused resin table and let it soak for about 5 minutes, then quickly take it to a closed area and turn off the lights. The effect is incredible! The image above shows the table with the additional resin spill in complete darkness. Here there are no photo tricks, this image is exactly as it appeared when the lights were off. In any case, the effect in person is even more vibrant.

Clean the edges

Clean the edges

Along the edges where the resin touches the acrylic or masking tape may be small sections of high resin due to capillary action. Although borders They are going to be routed without problems, the elimination of these raised edges facilitates the sanding process. Use a sharp knife to cut the raised edges.

Sanding

Machine sanding

We suggest using a 25"drum sander. This sander has a very rough grain and is ideal for plowing through large flat pieces, such as tables. However, this machine is not necessary and can work the surface of the table to obtain a smooth finish only using an electric sander. Of several returns to the table several times, until the whole surface is well leveled.

After several passes

After several passes

After a few steps through the drum sander, the surface of the table will have been leveled and the resin that spills over the raised points will have been removed. Now we have to return the resin surface to a high gloss and smooth the surface of the wood.

Sanding finish

Sanding finish

Use a random orbital sander that sands rough sand up to 400 grains. Spend enough time with each grain of sandpaper to ensure a smooth finish.

Route

Route the wood

After sanding the surface, you can direct your attention to the edges. The nature of Pecky cypress wood precludes a uniform distance at the edge with a final bearing, which means that the router blade could occasionally sink into the table plus where there is a cavity at the edge of the table. To solve this, make a fence for the router. With the rounderover bit installed in the router, measure the distance from the edge of the final bearing to the edge of the base of the router, this distance would be the backing of the guide. Hold a straight edge fence on this reverse perpendicular to the edge of the sides of the table.

Edges

Edges of the table

With the fence installed, the router could pass through the borders from the table to make a good rounded edge.

Polyurethane finish

Polyurethane finish

After routing and finally sanding, you can apply a durable glossy polyurethane finish. In a well-ventilated area, apply a coat with a foam brush and let it dry completely.

Wet sanding

wet sanding

To achieve a high gloss finish, sand wet between layers of polyurethane. Once a layer is completely dry, spray the surface lightly with water, then use a 1200-grit sandpaper to smooth any brushstrokes from the previous polyurethane layer. Clean the surface and allow it to dry completely before applying another layer of polyurethane. Repeat this process several times to achieve a very high gloss finish.

Paint the leg anchor plate

Paint the leg anchor plate

With the upper part finished, you can direct your attention to the base. Retro fork table legs were used for this table. These legs are screwed at the bottom of the table. As the design of this table is different from the design of the legs, a new way of anchoring them to the table had to be created. To hide the accessory of the leg and really keep the focus on the top of the bright table, it was decided to paint the anchor plate of the leg completely black.

Transfer anchor openings

Transfer anchor openings

Once the paint on the leg anchors is dry, place the anchor plates on the bottom of the table and transfer the opening location to the table. Drill an opening in the marks, ensuring that only the hole is drilled as deep as the anchor nuts.

Add the anchor nuts + plate

Add the anchor nuts

The anchor nuts can be installed in the openings, then install the anchor plate over the anchor nuts. Since Pecky cypress wood has irregular cavities, some minor adjustments are needed to ensure that the bolts and anchor plates have sufficient coverage at the bottom of the table. Use Industrial Strength Adhesive (E-6000), which binds almost everything to anything else permanently. It's unpleasant, but magical.

Place the legs

Place the legs

When the adhesive has completely dried, the fork legs can be installed. Align the legs and screw the anchor bolts to secure the legs to the bottom of the table.

Install your table and contemplate its radiance!

install your table

Your table is ready to shine all night. This glitter powder needs UV light to activate, so the sunset is a good time to enjoy the transition.

bright table

This table has a really neat effect, and it looks great even in the twilight. Depending on the amount of UV exposure your table has, it can shine for up to 20 minutes.

original shiny table

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